Posted on

It’s Time to Celebrate!

Best Sewing Patterns - Rosita Jacket

Our Rosita Jacket sewing pattern is a winner in this year’s “Best Sewing Patterns of 2018” PatternReview.com contest.

Have you seen her lately?

Rosita jackets are being made all over the world and in beautiful, creative fabrics.

Do you know where our designer, Christine Groom’s, inspiration for the Rosita Jacket came from?

Her inspiration came from two things; a piece of kantha cloth she had been holding onto for just the right pattern, and, Rosita, a wonderful woman who owned a shop in Anchorage. Rosita’s boutique is always full of exciting garments from independent designers. Visiting the boutique is eye candy for Christine, sending her home each year with a sketchbook full of new pattern ideas. It was an easy choice to design this jacket as our first pattern, and so we honor Rosita, who is no longer with us, by giving the Rosita Jacket her name. We positively enjoy seeing everyone’s creations! Through creative design, this jacket is reversible and can be made with woven or knit fabrics.  We’ve seen her made as a silk blouse, from reversible knits, jacquards and home dec, from quilts and shearlings, and from kantha cloth, of course.  

Thank you everyone!

We want to thank everyone who voted for the Rosita Jacket as one of the best sewing patterns of 2018 and especially those who wrote reviews on PatternReview.com. Your comments and feedback mean so much and are instrumental in making our pattern design company better. We read every one and, as a result, implement change with your invaluable input. Be sure to check out our blog on how to write a review!

ZigZag Designs Patterns

We hope you find all our patterns are the best sewing patterns, like a collection of good friends. Some are flirty and some are serious, some are loose and easy-going, while others are sleek and slim. Most importantly they are all so stylish!!

You can purchase the Rosita Jacket Pattern in our Etsy shop here.

Rosita Gallery

You can find a gallery of Rositas made by people just like you with these links: Pinterest  Website  

Follow Us

There are a lot of exciting things in store for ZigZag Desgins in 2019. Three new patterns are being released this year! Make sure you follow our blog and subscribe to our newsletter to be notified of tips and tricks, new patterns and special offers, so you don’t miss a thing.

Thank you!
Christine Groom

ZigZag Designs strives to create patterns for young at heart, middle-aged women, with a goal of providing designs having unique style, an easy fit and provide for a creative use of fabrics.

Posted on

Continuous Bias Tape – made easy

The Rosita Jacket provides for multiple seam finish options. Binding them with a custom made bias tape is one of many very nice ways to make a statement with this pattern.  When considering bias tape as an option, we’d like to encourage you not to settle for the standard package varieties.  For a truly designer jacket, consider making your own instead.  The continuous bias tape making method is easy and worth the effort.  Full disclosure, we didn’t invent this technique and if you search for it online, you will find many resources telling you how it’s done.  We reviewed several online references before creating our own tutorial.

Instructions:

  • Tear or cut your fabric into an on-grain square
  • Draw a diagonal line from one set of corners
  • Mark an ‘X’ at the top and bottom of the square, exactly in the middle
  • Mark an ‘O’ at each side of the square, exactly in the middle
  • Cut the square in half along the diagonal line drawn earlier
  • Match and pin the two edges marked with the ‘X’ right sides together
    • be sure the ‘X’s are aligned and if a small tip of each end hangs over the edge, be sure the amounts are the same
    • using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch the two pieces together
  • Press the seam open – you now have a parallelogram – be carful not to distort it by accidental stretching
  • Beginning on the right side of the fabric and on one of the long ends of the parallelogram, use a see through 2” ruler to start marking lines 2” apart
    • be very exact in your ruler placement in this step
      • I like to place my see through ruler so that the 1st line is positioned just inside the 2” line. Doing this accounts for the thickness of my marker ensuring an exact 2” line.
      • Use a removable marker that you can see clearly. I am using a sharpie for demonstration purposes only
    • repeat until you have marked all the lines possible on your fabric
    • if you end up with an irregular amount left over go ahead and trim it off
Ruler placed on edge of fabric to begin drawing the 1st line
Image showing offset of ruler placement to account for marker thickness
All lines possible drawn on parellegram
Trim off any excess edge at the end
  • Now, with your fabric still right side up, fold the two short ends in towards the center.
    • keep the short sides even so that the drawn lines line up.
Look carefully at this image to see the lines are matching through the overlay of the fabric
Close up image showing lines lining up
  • Now, offset the lines by one line.
    • do this by shifting the corners in opposing directions
Image showing shifting of corners
  • Keeping the offset in place, pin the short ends together.
    • this step is a little difficult as you have to force the edges to meet up with each other
    • the drawn lines will cross about ¼” apart
    • stitch 1/4′ seam
Image showing how lines cross at 1/4″ (for demonstration purposes, I used a marker to demonstrate where the line is on the right side of the fabric)
Image shows the ends will cross the last line in the same way
Pinned in place – ready to stitch
The finished seam
  • Press the seam open over a pressing seam roll
  • Turn the fabric tube right side out
  • Beginning at one end start cutting along the drawn line
    • keep cutting until you reach the other end
    • you now have one long, continuous strip of bias fabric
  • Feed one end of the bias strip into a clover #25, 2” bias making tool
    • Being careful not to stretch the tape, press the single folded strip with an iron as you pull the entire length through
    • watch the video for a demonstration of how to use the clover #25 bias making tool

Video Tutorial: How To Insert Your Bias Strip Into Clover #25 Bias Making Tool
  • Beginning at one of the single folded ends, fold the tape in half again and press the entire length.   
  • Now you have your one of a kind designer bias tape for your Rosita Jacket.  Time for a happy dance!!!

Notes:

  • Be sure to clean your ruler afterwards along all edges to remove any marker residue
  • Be sure to always work with a square when following this technique
  • An 18.5” square, as shown in this example, produces 4 ¼ yards of bias tape
  • A 32” square will produce 14 yards of bias tape, however; working with smaller squares may be easier
  • These instructions are for creating 1/2″ double fold bias tape, if you want to make a different width tape you will need to change the width of your lines to something other then 2″.

We hope you have fun with this technique for your Rosita Jacket and many of your other future projects.  A smallish square yields a good amount of bias tape.  We encourage you to look to your fabric stash for interesting bits of charmeuse, linen, chambray, rayon, or any lightweight woven, to add designer interest to your creations.

We look forward to your sharing your ZigZag Designs with us.   We love to see your creations and with your permission, we would like to share them online.

Send us an email at Christine@zigzagdesigns.biz

Don’t miss a thing!! Follow us here to stay tuned in:
FB: https://www.facebook.com/zigzagdesignsbychristine/
T: https://twitter.com/ZigZagDesignsCG
IG: https://www.instagram.com/zigzagdesignsbychristine/
P: https://www.pinterest.com/ZigZagDesignsByChristine


Happy Sewing!!

Christine Groom
Owner/Designer
ZigZag Designs

Posted on

Rosita Jacket Sew-A-Long: How to Insert the Pockets

Releasing the Rosita Jacket (my first pattern for the home sewer), I imagine is a lot like raising a first child. I am hearing from you, my customers, friends, and peers, that this pattern (my first child!) is a good one, but she needs more instructions.  Today, I’m writing this tutorial as one of two or three in a series to help clarify a few steps. The first step being a ‘how to’ on the insertion of the hidden side seam pockets. Ultimately, my plan is to do a complete update to the Rosita pattern instructions, and to provide a revised copy to everyone who has purchased her.  So, for now, here we go with the sew-a-long!

Rosita Jacket Side Seam Pockets

Step 1

Reinforce the pocket notches on all four pocket bags (8 notches, 2 each pocket bag), the fronts (4 notches, 2 each front), and side fronts (4 notches, 2 each side front) by stay stitching along the seam line of each notch for about 1″.

stay stitching along notch seam allowance for about 1″

Step 2

Matching notches, pin pocket bags to center fronts, WRONG sides together.

Pocket bags pinned to center fronts WRONG sides together. Extra tip – I use straight pins to mark the RIGHT side of the fabric so I don’t get confused. Those straight pins are visible in this image.

Step 3

Stitch the pocket bags to the center fronts, the entire length of the pocket bag, top to bottom, through each notch.

The notches are identified here with a red marker for instructional purposes only. The straight pin is indicating the RIGHT side of the fabric as also shown in the previous step

Step 4

Matching notches, pin pocket bags to side fronts, RIGHT sides together.  Stitch in place between notches only.

4a) Then, clip seam to, but not through, each notch.

4b) Press stitched seams towards pocket bag, leaving unstitched portions of the seam allowance free

 

4c) Trim and grade seam allowance, if necessary, to reduce bulk

4d) Edge stitch the seam allowance in place to each pocket bag between notches only.

 

4e) Turn pocket bags to inside, between notches, and press.  Be sure to leave the remaining unstitched seam allowances free and aligned with the rest of the side front

Step 5

Matching notches, pin side fronts to center fronts, WRONG sides together.  Stitch the entire length of the seam leaving open between notches on pocket bags.

matching notches before pinning

side front pinned to center front leaving pocket bag free and open

side front stitched to center front leaving pocket bag open

5a) Grade pocket bag seam allowances on either side of the pocket bag, if necessary.

ungraded pocket bag seam allowances

pocket bag seam allowances graded out

Step 6

Pin pocket bags together, RIGHT sides together, and stitch around the entire length, forming the pockets

6a) trim and/or finish the pocket bag edges with binding, zigzag or serge finish as desired

6b) Optional – if desired at this point the pocket bags may be topstitched in place to the center fronts

Step 7 (if you are binding the seams)

Pin binding along the entire edge of the center/side front seam, including the exposed pocket bag seam allowances.

7a) stitch binding in place, being careful to not catch the pocket bag seam.  (The side front is kept open between notches)

Step 8

Secure the other side of the binding in place by hand or machine as desired

The finished, hidden, in-seam pocket should look like the images immediately below when finished.

side front view

front view

front view with hand in pocket

I love making the Rosita Jacket with pockets.  I hope now with these instructions you do, too!!!

As always, I’m here if you need me.  Feel free to send me an email if you have questions or comments at christinegroom@zigzagdesigns.biz  And please send images of your Rosita so we can share your inspiring garment with others.

Happy Sewing!!

Christine Groom
Owner/Designer
ZigZag Designs

Posted on

Introducing…Rosita!

Hello to my dear customers, friends, family, and new readers! 2018 is going to be an exciting year for ZigZag Designs. As many of you know, it has been a lifelong dream of mine to design fashions and create patterns. In December 2017, my dream became reality when I released my first pattern, the Rosita Jacket, for sale to home sewers.

I have been designing patterns for myself for years, and in the back of my mind I often thought that other home sewers might appreciate my patterns as well. I wondered what it would be like to test the market and put my pattern designs up for sale. So, a few months ago, I opened my Etsy shop and did just that!

It was about two years ago when I decided the Rosita Jacket would be the first of my patterns that I’d like to sell. And, since coming on the market, the response has been overwhelmingly positive, and I am so grateful to each person who has purchased and sewn her! But, what many of you don’t know is how I came to name this beautiful jacket. So, I’d like to tell you Rosita’s unique and special story.

Rosita was an actual person, a vibrant owner of a women’s fashion boutique in Anchorage, Alaska, in fact! Annually, my husband and I travel to Anchorage, and we always made a point to stop inside Rosita’s shop while in town. Her presence always filled the room with such an exciting energy, and her store was abundant with so many unique, wearable items.

Rosita was the ultimate sales woman, and we always left her boutique with a good time had, a heart full of laughter, and a few items to take home. Sadly, Rosita passed away a few years ago. Her son continues to run the shop, but she is greatly missed.

When I designed the Rosita Jacket, I designed it as an improved version of a jacket I had purchased from Rosita in Anchorage before she passed. Each time I describe the Rosita Jacket, I think of her, and as a result I have since come to refer to all of my patterns as “she” or “her”.

My patterns are like a collection of good friends. Some are flirty and some are serious, some are loose and easy-going, and others are sleek and slim, but they are all so stylish!!

If you’d like to see more of the Rosita Jacket, you can do so here. I do hope you give this jacket a try, she is a lot of fun!

There are a lot of exciting things in store for ZigZag Designs this year. Please stay tuned for some Rosita “tips and tricks”, photos, videos and more!

And, make sure to follow my blog and sign up for my newsletter.

You can also follow me on social media:

 

I look forward to connecting with you!
Christine